January 2010
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Year 2010

My Tiny Studio

Here are a few shots of my little palace in downtown Garapan. As far as I’m concerned this white washed, 10′ x 18′, concrete, kitchen-less studio is the Taj Mahal. It’s comfortable, close to everything, it even has a balcony and a bath tub. It’s handy to shops the internet and best of all I have access to turquoise water and a postcard beach just two blocks west. I’ll brag just a little bit more: rent is less than $10 a night.

Finding the place was fun too. The day after Pete, Mary Ann, and Alyx left, Peter dropped me off downtown and I began the hunt. Starting at Micro Beach Hotel and Food Court (fourth floor unfurnished kitchen-less studio, $250) I criss-crossed the small central area dialing every “For Rent” number and calling up to balconies, “Any vacancies here? Where’s the office?” There are a lot of vacant apartments in downtown Garapan. One I looked at and liked (unfurnished, one bedroom, with kitchen, $300) had been tenant-less from the day it was finished years ago. (Finished as in work stopped on it, it was without A/C, fixtures, appliances. There wasn’t even a power meter installed yet.)

I happily settled for my apartment when I saw it. There were “For Rent” signs all over, but no one answered the phone. A woman in an adjoining shop shook her head saying “for Japanese only,” when I asked about it. Fortunately I loitered long enough to meet Edgar the caretaker who told me these apartments are no good and too expensive. I disagreed with him and meet with the manager later that night, negotiated rent down $40, signed a month to month lease and moved in.

This place suits me fine. The bed’s a little hard, tiny ants march to an from left out food and there’s no wi-fi to steal but the positives far outweigh the negatives here in this numberless apartment in it’s nameless building.

Day Trip To Managaha

Blue Moon Butterfly

You may spot one of these delightful little butterflies floating near flowering trees in Saipan. I’m not sure, but I think it’s an Hypolimnas bolina or Common Eggfly. I think I’ll call it by it’s much prettier name Blue Moon Butterfly.

Try This Apigigi

Check it off the list!

Apigigi is a delicious island treat. Coconut meat ground together with tapioca flour rolled in a banana leaf and grilled. It’s a not too sweet gummy desert/breakfast and it’s delicious, even cold like I had it here from this Chamorro bakery in Capitol Hill.

The Betel Nut


Introducing the betel nut.

The Chamorro name for this acorn sized palm nut is Pugua, known world wide as the betel nut. It’s widely popular on Saipan and is sold alongside all it’s “mix” in every grocery store at the check out counter. It ranges in price, but a dollar will buy you from 5-10 of the green pods. Two varieties are currently in season. Saipan Red, preferred for its softness and sweetness, daily delivered from local farms (“it’s our money tree”) to the grocery store, and Yap. Yap is mostly imported from the isle of Yap, though a few people on Saipan grow this woodier variety.

Bite the cap off of it, and split it open with your teeth to reveal a woody meat with a pale pink center. (If its too juicy, it’s not so good, call it paska.) Swipe a tiny amount of mineral lime out of its container with your pinky and transfer it to the center of the betel nut, close it up and you’re good to go. You can stop right now pop it in your mouth and chew it up. You’ll feel your face go flush and depending how much lime you have used you’ll probably get a head rush.

Or, like most people, you will opt for a more flavorful mix. You may like your betel nut wrapped in a special peppery leaf (delicious but turns your spit red!) or with a cardamom pod, tobacco, or some other spices before chomping away at it. (The finished bundle, betel nut and mix, is called the the mama’on.)

Dentists here hate that people use it. The mineral lime is harsh and can toughen the inside of your cheek and stain your teeth. It may be related to some mouth cancer. Probably worse is that kids as young as seven can start chewing. Stores won’t sell it to kids but it’s everywhere–heck it grows on trees!

If you ever get a chance to try it, do! It’s definitely not something I’ll make a habit of using, but I’m glad I tried it.